I promise I will not keep using alliteration in the titles. Or maybe I will.
But Barcelona
was beautiful, and so very multi-faceted: big-city skyscrapers, old-world charm, beach, ancient treasures, modern treasures, art nouveau, avant garde, narrow streets, wide boulevards. Besides that, my sister was there! Gotta go!!
Though we arrived in Barcelona at different airports, we landed at the rental office at the same time - and a few hours too early to get into the apartment, so we strolled in the area we were. I think that would be interesting just about anywhere in Barcelona.
Our apartment was in the oldest part of Barcelona where the streets are amazingly narrow - you wouldn't want to drive around with your elbow resting on the open window - and we were surprised the taxi got as close as it did to the apartment.
Notice the flags. They were everywhere! This is more Catalonia than Spain and the locals are ferocious in their allegiance to the region. They had elections on the Sunday we were there, and the separatists got a majority in the parliament. But who knows what will happen next.
First order of business - buy food. Though Barcelona is teeming with restaurants of all sorts - tapas places are of course everywhere - after two weeks of eating out, J+L were ready for a relaxing meal at our (temporary) home. We can do that. And it was good!
I am not sure we made it out of the apartment before noon any day
(except departure day), but that was fine, too. This is a vacation, not a marathon.
Day 1 - to the jump
on/jump off bus. We saw so many lovely sights.
The Columbus Memorial.
The Port Building. Only one of many of the buildings in the Art Nouveau style.
We got off, looking for the iconic Church of St. Maria. Not so easy to find, it seemed. But there was lots to see along the way. First, a part of the ancient city wall. I love the mixed use of brick and stone and of course the natural greenery popping from between the seams.
This isn't either architectural or historical, but a bit of both. These old old buildings can't deal with all the new-fangled electric cables so they're clamped on the outside walls all over the place. Looks a bit dangerous, but maybe it's OK?
The Church of St. Maria is a magnet, and we wandered down the narrow alleyway filled with vendors to find the church. But the inside? We opted not. Another entrance fee and frankly we have all seen so many churches. Maybe next time.
Outside the church, there was this row of faucets, drinkable water that folks filled their bottles from. I so miss public water fountains in Germany.
A little doorway beckoned and we went in to find the Archives of Catalonia, housed in the wonderful home of a former Viceroy. What a peaceful interlude.
Back on the bus! Aren't these street lights wonderful little works of art?
And the organic forms of occasional buildings are such a respite from straight lines.
We saw a lot of the city highlights, but when we jumped off, we stayed off too long, so getting around the city took longer than we thought. Oh well, at least we were cool on the top of the bus.
Next day, we need-need-NEEDED the beach. But first we had to get to the bus and there, well, are the not-very-well-regulated vendors selling not-very-authentic goods. Need a Kors wallet? A Louis Vuitton bag? Name your price.
First a stroll by the harbor. Seems folks like to sail here.
What a nice beach Barcelona has! I am surprised. Most of the beaches I've seen here in Europe are 1. Rocky or 2. Muddy or 3. Ugly or 4. Small. The beach in Barcelona is wide and sandy and clean - CLEAN! - with little side restaurants here and there and access for those in wheel chairs or kids in strollers. Barcelona boasts that they have the most accessible city in Europe. I couldn't argue.
After 50 years, J+L seem to still like holding hands when they walk. How sweet!
After a fantastic late lunch at a tapas restaurant nearby (here the amazing Iberian smoked ham we had)...
we hopped off at the old cemetery. It wasn't what we'd expected. Rows and rows of wall crypts, mountains of fake flowers (??!!) and some monuments between. Interesting, some of them quite old, but of course we thought Père Lachaise in Paris was more visually appealing. I suppose those who reside in either place don't really care.
The beach area is much newer than other areas of Barcelona, benefiting from all the construction around the 1992 Olympic Games.
Here's another modern sculpture we saw along the way: David and Goliath.
Then back to the city and a leisurely stroll home. More wonderful churches - here the Barcelona Cathedral. So many people were outside on the square, musicians playing, children running, lots of tourists. A real gathering place.
And wandering back, Werner found a hat shop. He does love a hat!! And frankly, my dear, he looks absolutely dashing in a hat (but not a cap - then he looks like Popeye).
We were in the old town, and as in so many inner cities in Europe, there's a lot of graffiti. I don't like it; some of my younger students classify it as art, but not me. Most doors looked like this - defaced, sprayed, crapped. The door itself is a wonderful work of craftsmanship, but vandals make it hard to see. I do not get the message.
And there was the music event. Classic Spanish guitar and a bit of Flamenco. Oh my.
The venue was worthy of the artists. HUGE stained glass light overhead with gazed rosettes and fluted columns.
We enjoyed the music and the dancing - as did everyone. There was a rousing ovation after the performance.
Next day, we went our separate ways - J+L to shop and such, us to the Picasso Museum. No pictures of that since of course no photography was allowed. But it was good - lots of work from his early years which was far more representative than the later works.
And Day Last to Sagrada Familia, the church that Gaudi started in the late 19th century and is still unfinished. They build when there's enough money in the pot, but surely they'll not have to stop. We waited in line for some time to get tickets and then had to find something to entertain ourselves till our admission time.
These first pictures are misleading - taken from the top of the bus earlier in the trip. The day of our visit it was drizzly and gray.
The ticket seller was a friendly sort and noticed Julia's Georgia address and asked "Atlanta?" A conversation followed and he recommended we spend our time walking up to the
Hospital de St. Pau
so we did! It really was a hospital until fairly recently, but now is a World Heritage Site.
Lunch was in order and we found a little Crepe shop and enjoyed being dry. And the food was good, too. I love a savory crepe.
Folks try hard everywhere to accommodate all the tourists so you'll find menus in English. But sometimes the English needs help! Snacks? Sancks?
But the best I didn't photo: "Eggs pissed with potatoes." Eggs from angry chickens?? In Spanish (or Catalan) it was Hurevos revueltos con patatas. Scrambled eggs. But really when you think about it, scrambled and pissed aren't all that far from each other.
Back to the Cathedral. It has been consecrated and services are now held there. You could be absolved of your distraction by the details - there are so many.
These are details of the bronze doors leading into the cathedral - of course, natural forms and figures, ivy with all the little critters that belong there.
With a sigh and another sigh, we left the cathedral, found our Metro and came out right opposite one of the markets. Well, gotta go!
We all love a market and this did not disappoint. Actually perfect - we picked up fruit salad, little quiches and other goodies for our last dinner. J+L spent their last euros - which reminds me, guys, how did you get home???
And finally, the wishbone from the first night's chicken. It was well dried and Julia and I pulled. She got the big half and I hope her wish was to come back and visit again. You are so welcome. Anytime.
