Postings from Germany: A Week Away

We made the reservations way back before Corona upended everyone's plans and we weren't sure till just a few weeks ago that it would happen at all. But it did! A bike trip!

Our bike trips the last few summers have been from A to B, but this time we thought we'd stay put, and do A-B-A, A-C-A, A-D-A, etc. You get the idea. In German it's called a Sterntour, like the rays shining from a star.

So Werner filled the trunk with everything he could imagine that we might remotely need, and off we went.

Geltow on the Schwielowsee is a bit south of Potsdam, which is a bit south-west of Berlin, which is about a 4-hour drive from our home. Coolish, overcast, perfect for driving.

We were welcomed by poppies in the field across the street

..and in our room, roses from the garden.

We mostly unpack, then get on the bikes to check out the neighborhood and figure out dinner. Monika, our host, has suggested a nice Italian place, but we opt for easy and find a take-out pizza place. With some salad, it is a fine dinner at home.

Day 1 - Potsdam

Wearing my bike necklace from Hunter and Hannah.

It's bright and sunny but still coolish.

The path to Potsdam is mostly wide and paved and right along the river - also right through a camp ground. Boy is that place full! Tents, RV's camper trailers, lots of kids and bikes and kayaks.

9K later, we're in the town. And the first thing we see is not a mosque, even though it was built to look like one. It's a pumping station, built in 1842 to supply water to all the fountains at Sanssouci, the summer palace of Friedrich der Grosse (Fredrick the Great). It still works, though has had some internal upgrades.

The old market is considerably changed from the rubble and ruin of WWII - restorations were just recently completed. The Nickolaikirche, the former town hall and the current seat of state government is there. Pretty empty since there are no shops and no meetings. And corona. Lots of things are closed.

What is open is the Barberini Museum, currently showing the Monet exhibit "Places." Unfortunately, we were unable to snag tickets....

Off to Sanssouci. Here of course they pronounce it the French way, not the way we said it in Jacksonville when we lived in a subdivision of the same name.

But before we get there, we stumble on the pedestrian zone - really nice with wide walkways and little inner courtyards with other small restaurants and shops. At first we think we must be hungry, but it's only 11:30, so we settle for a cup of coffee.

Before entering the garden proper, we detour to the Friedenskirche (Church of Peace). I guess more people were shorter those days...

The Garden Gate, a sight fancier than ours. The paper on the gate tells us about corona precautions. Those signs were everywhere!

We wander through parts of the gardens- they occupy hundreds of acres, so we just catch a glimpse. It's not very busy (it is a Monday, after all) and the palace itself is closed. Can't even walk up the terrace.

The long way to the waterworks above.

One of the many statues adorning the gardens.

A small orchard next to the Orangerie and a windmill.

Heading toward the other end of the park, we came across this little jewel where the royals could have tea in an oriental setting. We don't want to get bored sitting around the same old rooms every day.

At the other end of the garden is the New Palace built in the 19th c, basically unoccupied since WWI when the last king went into exile with 42 train cars of furnishings from the place. It was a museum till WWII then pretty much not in use. SO BIG.

Across the courtyard were the welcoming halls for guests.

We leave the grand buildings and gardens behind and head back through the woods to our little apartment.

Through the former wooded area the kings kept for hunting, there's a nice little restaurant on the banks of the water and we decide a leisurely big lunch would be just the ticket. Yummy! Baked mackerel for Werner and an asparagus salad for me (we shared).

A short shopping trip for an evening snack and to our quarters. Easy day - 25K plus a nice evening walk.

Day 2

Bad sleep. The sun is up at 4:30 and so am I.

Today we're off to Kloster Lehnin about 20K away, perfectly doable. But my bad night didn't help the start of the day.

First, down the path to the Baumgarten Bridge, just after the two big carvings from trees that had to be taken down.

So a few kilometers along the way, we decide we've missed a turn, so go back to the intersection, then determine we were actually on the right road and go back again. And this place has hills! I have to admit, I am awake now.

A quick look at the former Pelzow Schloss, a rather general word in German that seems to mean anything from a castle to a manor house. This fits in the latter category. At one time, it was a royal get away along the water, and is now private apartments. Still needs a bit of garden work...

These "Herrenhäuser" are everywhere along the various lakes and rivers.

Then through the woods. I was fascinated by the strange mix of trees, and especially the ones in the foreground here. Turns out they're acacia, the tree that provides blossoms for my go-to honey. It is always in the pantry. Later we saw - and heard! - the hives set out for the bees to do their work!

Getting there looked like a long straight shot and I was expecting a rather boring ride, but it was anything but. The surfaces varied from smooth asphalt to wooded trails, to post WWII concrete block stretches to sandy trails. That was a nasty part - 7K - and part of the time we had to push the bikes.

Finally, the Abbey. We had really hoped to visit the museum on the grounds, but everything was closed once again. We walked the grounds and admired the buildings. The abbey was established in 1180 and the church was after that.

The old granary.

Of course, there are plenty of quiet places to walk.

We ventured into the small town and found a place to lunch - not the same ambience as the day before - and then reluctantly headed back the same way. No choice! A little way into the sandy 7K, we found a picnic bench and took a nap. Bike helmets are fine for sleeping in.

Refreshed, we started again and Werner discovered his tire was flat!! Of course, we have a repair kit with us, but first he tried pumping with our little portable pump. He could get about 1.5-2K from a pump, so that's what he did for the last 10K.

What a day!

Day 3

We're a bit late getting on the road today since it starts with changing the tire tube.

To Caputh (it sounds a lot like kaput!). Cute little place. It's a peninsula and we take the ferry, pulled by a cable, from our side to the other.

Another little Schloss, another summer place for one of the royals (I can't keep them all straight).
The museum was open, now filled with paintings and portraits, little smatterings of furniture. Like with many places, there's sanitizer at the entrance and restrictions on how many folks can be in a room. Ah corona.

Ceiling paintings.

And a nice view of the river from the front terrrace.

On to Ferch along pleasant wide paths through wooded areas but never far from the water. And wouldn't you know, a lovely place to eat with a lovely view and cold beer.

The little museum we'd hoped to visit was closed but will be open on the weekend. We'll try to hit it on the way home.

There were thoughts of visiting Werder and the island, but we decided that was enough for one day and headed back. A little rest, a little reading, a little dinner, and planning for tomorrow because rain is expected.

Day 4

Yes, the rain came.

We took the car heading to Beelitz, note the Baumkronenweg (an elevated walk through tree tops) but skip that, and are astounded by the Beelitz Heilstätten, a medical treatment and rehab complex built in the style of English Tudor mansions in 1898. Some of it is falling to ruin, some still in use. We got started so late there's no time to stop and look through, but next time...

In Beelitz there's the St. Marienkirche and the special Blutwunderkapelle from 1370.

From the outside it looks pretty OK, but inside there is some intensive renovation going on - we stepped over trenches and around other diggings. Perhaps the restoration will bring it back to its earlier glory.

Lunch was in Trebbin at an old traditional hotel. We opted to eat inside to avoid the noise of the street, but we were the only ones there - Spargel and smoked ham, a casserole of pork and tomatoes. Surprisingly good!

It's getting late! Our goal for the day is the Kloster Zinna, and it won't be open much longer!
The plaque outside lets us know that Archbishop Wichmann was one of the founders. Wow.

Only a few of the original buildings remain, all in the Brick Gothic style. The staff are so anxious to tell us about the place - really friendly and helpful - and we have it almost entirely to ourselves.

There are displays in each of the rooms we visit, lots of historical artifacts, lots that could be read but isn't.

Likely the most famous part of the Kloster is the frescoes dating from the 15th c.

But it's a Kloster, so they distilled some liquor, too! The distillery is still in operation and they gave us a little sample of their wares. Good stuff! We bought a bottle to take home (another advantage of travelling by car).

Then quick to the Weaving Museum just down the road. Frederick the Great tried to inject some business into the area in the 18th c and lured workers with housing and tax exemptions to come and work in the weaving business there. It pretty much flopped as soon after the weaving was commercialized, but there are remnants of the old craft on display.

Love me some hand-loomed linen towels.

Plus there was coffee and cake. Thank goodness! A little pause, back in the car and a brief stop in Jüterbog which was definitely worth a longer look. As you can see, the rain didn't keep up.

It was close to 8PM when we got back to the apartment for a later-than-usual light evening meal.

Day 5

Finally to Werder, though again it's a late start. That's OK; we're not really on a schedule this trip.

I was confused at first. We got to the town of Werder and looked around. Nice. Coordinated. Lots and lots of restaurants!

But the main attraction is the little island of Werder in the middle of the Havel. What a jewel! Most of the buildings have been restored, it is definitely oriented toward tourists and recreation.

The church was closed. They even discouraged visiting the cemetery.

Nearby, the park surrounding the old mill was closed, too.

But you can't fence in the roses. It's been a spectacular year for them.

We took a light lunch of Bratwurst and beer, snoozed a bit in the sling-back chairs and then watched some boys running and jumping off the short pier into the water. It looked like a throw-back to the 50s.

OK - now off to Golm by way of the railway bridge over the river. A freight train was approaching ever so slowly as we got to the end of the bridge, so I waved at the operator - and he tooted back! I almost jumped out of my skin! The second throw-back in one day -wow.

In Golm we take a quick look at yet another royal summer residence. This one looks quite liveable.

Back the way we came, and clean up for a nice dinner at the local Italian place we didn't visit our first night. Worth the wait!! What a lively place. Food was yummy, the cook came out to sing, and then the waiter gave us the wrong bill. Whoa!! 115 €?? We got that straight fast and a Grappa as an apology. Afterwards, a sunset. Perfect.

Day 6

It's Nicole and Jeremy Day!

This pic is from the end of the day so hair plastered down, all bedraggled looking because it was HOT. But it was a happy day.

They took the train to Potsdam, we biked to meet them and we hugged. Carefully. It's the first time I've hugged anyone but Werner since March.

We thought we'd go to Ketzin where there is another Schloss and Kloster, but we only got as far as Marquardt. There's a Schloss there, too, of course.

Map consulting is what we do.

Our bikes might be a bit fancier than our city friends, but their legs are younger and they get daily practice (no car), so it was a challenge keeping up sometimes. Besides, did I mention it was HOT?

The poppies!! We've seen them everywhere, but this field was exceptional.

Lunch - a local place with a wide-ranging menu and we ate well and a bit much. Jeremy allowed as how he had discovered, while biking thousands of miles through the American west when he was younger, that a big lunch wasn't good for biking. No joke.

Also, I dropped my phone in the toilet. Really. It's amazing how much water a phone can hold, is it not?? I shook and slung and tried my best to dry it out. (Seems to be working fine now. )

We took a quick look at the Schloss. It's now an Event place, and clearly needs more attention. The current building is from the 18th c, and before this last incarnation was briefly a hotel. From WWII on it didn't have regular inhabitants.

But there were storms on the horizon! We hot-tailed it back to Geltow, grabbed some pastries at the shop and had a cup of tea in the lovely garden of our apartment before sending Nicole and Jeremy back to Potsdam. They ALMOST made it home without getting wet.

We eat up what's left in the fridge and begin the packing....

Day Last

Check-out time is 10 and we just make it - though of course our host is very generous, and left us a freshly clipped rose on the car windshield.

We take the little cable-drawn ferry over to Caputh and drive to Ferch but it's only 11 and the museum won't open till 12, so we keep going and land in Brandenburg.

The Katharinenkirche (1401) is a good example of Brick Gothic architecture.