Monday, July 11, 2016

Spain Part III - Malaga


Malaga was the place that - for me - held the most in terms of expectations.  And maybe most of my planning had gone into this place.

I'd arranged a driver to meet us at the train station.  How extravagant!!  But it turned out to be one of the best decisions ever.  Oscar took us to the door of the  apartment and let us know he was available for the next day and the next day and so on....

The apartment - and the service for it - was somewhat less than spectacular.  First, no A/C.  That was a minor shock since I was sure I'd asked for that everywhere (I do know my USofA guests!).  Aside from having a cool apartment in a very warm place, the A/C is such a sound buffer.  Our greeter says "But this is Malaga!  There's always a breeze!" And there was a sea breeze.  But the apartment was sparsely outfitted and a bit loud.  But we are troopers!  We accommodated!!  Most importantly, there was a TV to watch the Euro Cup (though to continue the minor complaints, it wasn't much bigger than ours at home in Germany, and ours is S M A L L).
First up, a bike tour of the old city.  There was a Ferris wheel. What fun! But we didn't ride on it.

Our tour guide turned out to be, wouldn't you know, a German who, wouldn't you know, was an intern from Bremen.  How funny is that?
 She gave us a great tour and a smattering of the lengthy history of Malaga, pointed out little restaurants, the local fort and a couple of interesting churches.

Here's the fort, though hard to see exactly how steep the way is and how high up it is.  That view, we skipped. 


 Hunter and Hannah posing with a bronze statue of Picasso, born here in Malaga.

 We stood in the shade to listen to Sandra talk.  Hot it was.
 The main cathedral - impressive (I need some different adjectives).

 One early point that she made was that Malaga, for all the money from tourism and its wonderful location still has an unemployment rate of over 35%. Ouch.  But, she said, the local folks were not only tolerant of the homeless community there, but tried to be helpful to individuals by offering food and short-term jobs.


We saw that in action.  At the main cathedral, a homeless man opened the door for us, welcomed us in with a smile and afterwards, Michelle gave him a donation.  It was accepted with smiles and thanks.  And before we got to the next destination on our bikes, there he was again!!  Still all smiles.  Our guide explained that he was one of the homeless they try to help with small jobs here and there.  Sounds like a community.

One little highlight of the bike tour: an inside look at the local bull fighting arena.  It's usually closed during the week of course, but today was practice day for the up-and-coming Toreadors.
 
Sandra took us by a local landmark that makes the famous muscatel, a sweet Schnapps famous in the region.  It's a lovely place full of history.   So we tried it.
  But frankly, we weren't so impressed with the taste.  Note Michelle's face!  Really? she seems to say.

Near the end of our tour, we went by the beach and the harbor where there were so many different restaurants.  THERE - THERE -THERE!  Let's go there  for dinner!  Anything, anywhere, but not Tapas, was the mantra.  We're all for that.

So we settled into the apartment, got what we needed for the next morning, and then decided for the Greek restaurant where the food was good, the service was great and the TV was showing the soccer match.  (Kids decided for hamburgers, a couple of restaurants down. Separate tables, fine with everyone.) The sunset was a nice plus! Life is good.

On the way back, the "kids" decided that the see-saw at the playground needed a check out. We never really grow up!  Thank goodness, there's always time for fun.


OK. Next day.  Caminito del Rey.  I found this place by accident and had suggested it on a whim, certain that Michelle would give it a clear NO. You certainly don't want to do this!  I said with great confidence.  OMG!  Sign us up! she replied.  Do it now!  So much for my crystal ball talents...

It took a bit of effort on my part to really get on board with this event. And more than a few weeks.  I really, really wavered and tried to keep all options open for chickening out at the last minute. But we did it!

Getting there was one of the two things I'd not arranged ahead for assorted reasons, but it turned out to be a good thing - our dear driver Oscar said he could do it.  

Seems that was his first trip to Caminito!! He stopped a couple of times along the way to ask locals where to go, and I was getting a bit nervous. There was a time to get in.  But we found the entrance finally - literally a hole in the wall, just a bit taller than Joey and about 300 meters long.  We didn't have time to be scared - we were already a bit late!

Out the other side of the tunnel there was a wide path that led us to the entry point.  Wait in a group.  Get safety lecture and helmets and hairnets.  Hairnets?!?!  What a hoot! We're all avoiding cooties!


And off we go.

Though 50 folks are let through the gate at one time, they quickly fan out and I never felt like I was with a bolus of 50 people.  We wandered and stopped and took lots of pictures and got quickly separated from each other!  Hannah and Hunter of course were in front and were proud to tell us they got to the end of the trail 35 minutes before we did. Where have you been?? they said.




AMAZING views!

The new trail is almost exclusively built over the old, rotting trail of a hundred years ago.
Looking at the old trail sorta makes your stomach go - plop!  It is a long way down.  
 The bridge was a bit of a challenge.  Don't look through the grid.  Don't look.  Don't.

That said, this new trail is so safe and so easy. You can't wear flip flops and if you're younger than 8 you can't get on the trail, but you can do it!  But when looking at it from a distance, you just go .... wow!  really? (That little dark line on the left is the trail.  Yes, it is.)

The views are amazing. Oh, I said that already.

 
Along the way:  so many interesting plants growing from the stones.  We saw wild rosemary, wild sage, and wild asparagus, too.

And I am so glad we did it! Here's the end of the trail.  (You can do it, too.  Let me know.....I have all the info for you!)

We got to the end so much sooner than I expected (I had figured it would take AT LEAST three hours, maybe more, but I think that was my anxiety talking) and when we gathered at the end we wondered how to contact Oscar the Taxi Man.  No worry - there he was, waiting for us!  I felt like a princess.

Home, food, football.  That's what we do. Maybe there was a nap in there, too.....

Next day, off to La Alhambra by bus.  Nevertheless it was also a bit of a trip from Malaga - almost 2 hours -  but more than worth it.  The grounds of the Alhambra are huge and it's really hard to comprehend how much was done and arranged for the various rulers over the centuries. It is not Versailles, but it is. Oh, the so rich royals of whatever religious orientation!  They had it good.

And on arrival, it was again the taxi.  No way to walk, the bus too hard to figure out.

Of course it is on a citadel, (relatively) easy to protect.  We walked UP.

After asking a couple of official folks how to redeem the tickets we had reserved, we took a food-and-drink break and then entered the grounds and found the place to enter the palace.  If you miss your meeting time, you are out of luck!
It's big.  It's intricate in all its decoration.  It's quiet and you feel that even with all the people around you.  It doesn't feel majestic to me, but quietly elegant.

Islands of calm.
 
 Quiet corners.

 The designs on the walls and ceilings were captivating.  I kept thinking of needlepoint designs.

 
 Hunter and Hannah look like royalty, don't you think?
 Yet another group shot.  Can't get enough of these!
 When we left the palace grounds we were in a small courtyard with a pool of lily pads and so many frogs!  They croaked like crazy.
 Heading up to the tower.
 And the view.  I think one could contemplate that for hours.  Really beautiful.
 Back down to the city and of course we are hungry.  We found a suitable place on the square, ordered our refreshing drinks that came with Tapas we didn't even order. Here, a bit of paella.

Joey looks as happy as the King of the Alhambra here.  Good food, family, cold beer.  Life is good.

So, another beer? Ok, more Tapas!



This guy kept bringing tapas.  Every time we ordered a beer, new tapas.  When we ordered a third, we all said  NO MORE TAPAS!  With a smile, of course.  Really, we didn't even need to order food!!

After the feast,  a little walk around the old city of Granada.  (I kept hearing the song the song  in my head...) The cathedral is of course worth a visit.  Before we ever started, Hunter let it be known he was not up for more than a cathedral or two, but we did a lot more than that and he was a good sport.


  It did seem every cathedral was more lavish and grand than the one before, but this one was a cut above.

 
Back in Malaga, it was the mundane of getting ready to leave, and eating and --- football!

Oscar, dear Oscar, took us to the airport.  Lordy, what a place!!  I had no idea and expected something rather small, maybe twice the size of PC:  NO!! It goes from here to forever and we started in the middle, had to go to one end to check in and to the other end to go through security which was a bit like a maze. Wow.

But no problem, really.  We are such seasoned travellers.  On the plane, arrive in Bremen.

Oh. Home!

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