The Quiet before the Quiet

Starting tomorrow, we go into Lock Down Lite.  Schools and shops will be open, but museums, gyms, theaters, will all be closed for at least the next four weeks to try and bring COVID back under control till we find a vaccine or some other thing that keeps the monster in check. We've long given up our gym membership. Restaurant eating is out of the question. So it was really important to get out today and see a bit of the world, or what we could cover in a couple of hours on our bikes.

And the day started off so well!  Bright sunshine!  Blue skies!  But it didn't last and by the time we'd finished our usual late Sunday morning brunch, cleaned up and got organized, the sun was in hiding and the skies were gray.  Oh, well.  You can't let gray skies stop you. (And I'm still weighing getting up at 7am to enjoy a bit of sunshine vs. getting a bit more sleep.  Sleep usually wins.)

We put tea in the thermos, packed some of the apple cake I made yesterday, and headed to the Overbeck Museum. Current exhibit:  Benjamin Beßlick:  Cloud Show. There were several rooms of clouds, drawn in graphite on transparent paper.  At first it looked boring, colorless drawings hanging on neutral-colored walls, but it quickly became calming.

Next to many of the drawings was a quote from a contemporary German poet, Hans Magnus Enzensberger, from his collection A History of Clouds.  Here's a sample:

Their wanderings high up
are quiet and unexorable.
Nothing bothers them.
Probably they believe
in resurrection, thoughtlessly,
happy like me,
lying on my back and
watching them for a while.            (translated by Esther Kinsky)

Well, I am not sure I fully agree with the poet's assessment, but there were some interesting juxtapositions and my brain can always use a bit of jogging.

In the next room, they'd put together paintings and drawings from the Overbecks, both Otto and Hermine, that had clouds as a prominent element.  We're quite familiar with their work, but this was an interesting contrast, too.

I have to say, I prefer the oil/colored representations of the clouds, but ... if I want calm, I'd have to choose Beßlick.  Is that what I need now?

Boy, art makes us hungry!  Jump on the bikes and head to the park and find a bench and break out the tea and cake!  (I hope I did not imply that we'd be actually biking for hours, just OUT and WITH bikes for a couple of hours.)

Knoops Park is just around the corner and we frequently bike through the park going from A to B or here to there, but far less often stop or wander.  But today, a stop on a bench and a nice look at the sky.

I think the artist would be challenged to highlight the contrast in the sky today.  Really, it is still pretty uniformly gray.  The view is pleasant, but no way are we lying on our backs and pondering the clouds.  It's way to wet on the ground for starters and not quite warm enough to be lolling.  But the tea is hot and the apple cake is just as good as it was yesterday. That's enough.

Our foray to the park wasn't random. or just a transition point.  There's some newly installed art there as well: steel sculptures.  Modern.  Stark.  Not sure what I think.

 I like the contrast of nature/not nature.  The sculptures are not stabiles á la Calder, but almost, since there may be only one point that melds one piece to another.  And WHAT is under the ground that keeps them upright!!?? These are v e r y heavy pieces. They almost remind me of trees, they almost remind me of  natural shapes, but not quite.  Nevertheless, I don't find them jarring.   

Even though the sky was pretty uniformly gray, you can see there's some nice color around.  We'll enjoy it while we can. By the time I get out again, the remaining colors will all be gone.

75 - and counting

Birthdays come and birthdays go and some are a bit more than others.  75.  Well, that's something.

This year, it's not much in terms of celebration.  First of course is Corona - can't get too many folks together.  And second - last week Werner got at cold, then I got a cold, then he had to be tested and so we couldn't be around anybody, so it was just us two.  

So we made a party for two.

It starts with breakfast. We do like to set the table. We'd decided on pancakes, and though Werner offered to do the cooking, pancakes are really my thing.

There was a little bit of a champagne candle left from some trip to the US, so we lit it. Cute. What's a birthday without a candle?

It was good.  Some leftovers of syrup and blueberries and the pancakes. 

There were phone calls during the day and it's always so nice to have a little conversation and get congratulations from family and friends. The standard German greetings include "best wishes for the coming year" because of course they want to wish the same for you next year, and the year after, and so on and on. That way you never go away. 

And to do that, we need a nap. 

And then a walk.  The weather was off-and-on but while we were out it was crispy sunny and bright.

And if it's birthday, it's cake.  Since we were supposed to have been in the Schwarzwald, we chose Schwarzwälderkirschtorte (Black Forrest Cherry Cake) and some cheesecake, and we shared, half and half.

And then more food.   Since a restaurant was out of the question, what with colds and Corona, we opted for home and seared venison filet, roasted carrots and Spätzle.  Can I say it was excellent? I am quite sure we'd not have had anything better out. 

So here's to me and here's to us and a lovely, though very quiet three-quarter century celebration. 

Next year maybe a party with everybody we know!!

Plum Tart

 There are these plums, Zwetschen, that ripen in late summer.  They're like prune plums, and they don't keep, so it you want to do something with these beauties, you have about four weeks.

I've already made two or three cakes, stewed some, eaten more than some just out of my hand. But I'd not yet done a tart, and I do love a tart.

Wouldn't you know it, the NYTimes featured a plum tart recipe that was simple and straightforward - pastry, plums, a bit of sugar and cinnamon.  Looked good on their page.

So I did it, but I noticed from the beginning that the plums were not the best - a bit too big, a bit dry, a bit bland, but I hoped the baking would intensify the flavor.

What a pitiful pie. This has to be the worst tart I have ever baked, both in flavor and looks!  Look at this thing!  The plums just seemed to shrivel up, they hardly made juice, and frankly, they didn't taste a whole lot better than when they were raw.  

Werner did some rescue work - took out the plums, mixed them with some stewed ones, broke up the pastry and put it in a separate container.  Later, we spooned the mixture over the broken pastry (really, butter cookies) and it was passable.  I'm going to try and keep the taste memory of the cake in my head until the plums come back again.

The Aller Bikeway

The Aller River flows into the Weser south of Bremen near Verden, so that's where our Aller Bikeway trip started - at the end of the river!  192K we did, according to my bike computer though the map says it's 174K from Verden to Wolfsburg.  I think we added a few wiggles, did a little bit of exploring and probably got off the trail a time, or two,  LOL.

Day 1 Verden to Hodenhagen -  49K

Five days, four nights, everything packed to go on the bikes.  We get the 11:30 train from Vegesack to Verden. The weather is warm and sorta hazy and a bit windy, but it's a tail wind. Lucky us!  

Here's the Aller in Verden with the cathedral in the background. The beginning of our trip but almot the end of the Aller! 

 Our first stop was lunch!  A nice view of the river and you can see from my hair how windy it was.

Really small villages today, and that'll be the case most of the way. In Westen there's an interesting church (established 1219) with an unusual round tower. Almost all the churches in north Germany are protestant and so almost all of them are closed unless there is a service going on.

In Hülsen, there is a Schafstall Viertel, a grouping of barns for sheep. The inside stalls were lower than ground level so the sheep droppings could be collected to fertilize the fields.  I was trying not to imagine the aroma.

And in Rethem there is a restored mill by the river.

And Hodenhagen was busy!  Where did all those folks come from!?  You'd think it was the night before Christmas. We locate our B&B and clean up for dinner and some end-of-day refreshment. Dinner was too much food (what else is new?) and we save some for lunch the next day even though we still have a sandwich left over from lunch!

Day 2 - Hodenhagen to Celle  - 62 K

We take a quick look at Schloss Ahlden.  For some reason, we've received brochures from them over the years about art auctions.  I suppose there are still private apartments there since we weren't really supposed to have been wandering around the place (oops!), but we took a few pictures of the exterior and then made our way down river.

Even though it's sunny, it's a lot cooler today and we're wearing most of what we brought.

Lots and lots of fields today - and hedgerows.  They're not as old or as tall or as trimmed as the ones we saw in Wales and England, but definitely hedgerows.

In Bothmar we wander a bit and while deciding where to go next, a stranger offers help and advises us to avoid Schwarmstedt (there's nothing there, he assured us) and go through Essel.  It was nice, dappled ways through the woods.  

Lunch wasn't nearly as picturesque - we sat on a pile of bricks at the empty sports club in Bucholz, but compensation was a toilet!  Those were not easy to come by any day. 

Windmills, on the other hand, are all over the place.

And of course a church in every village.

Just before arriving in Celle, we passed a stand with an "Honor Jar" for the bounty of the garden.  I wished for a kitchen to cook up some of those squash.

Our little hotel was amazingly tacky, but clean and best of all right in the middle of town. Celle is full of old half-timbered buildings. 

Day 3 Celle to Gifhorn - 50 K

Headwinds! The whole day! 

We spent a little time looking around Celle including the church, open! The interior was beautiful and ornate but I should not have been surprised since the Hannover princes have had a major seat in the town for generations.

 

Just off the city center is the palace of Prince Ernst August and Princess Caroline of Monaco.  Neither live there, and they haven't lived in the same place for years.  The young prince seems to be keeping it going.

We were on every kind of road imaginable today - from single walking paths through the woods to busy highways without bikeways!  Yow!  I don't like those.

First stop was Cloister Weinhausen, though we could only enjoy the outside.  There are still old nuns and sisters there and so it has been closed to the public for months now.  But we'd been there before and visited the lovely and ancient tapestry they own. Maybe I'll get to see it again sometime.

After over 4 hours in the saddle we arrived in Gifhorn to stay in a too-big hotel.  There was no question of getting back IN the sadddle, so we ate in the hotel in a room almost to ourselves.  Good thing.  

Some group was having a do in another room, singing!  We just shook our heads.  The infection rate here in Germany has been slowly inching up again and that sort of event makes no sense to me at all.  We kept our distance.

Day 4 - Gifhorn to Wolfsburg 29.5 K

Saturday morning and the awful news was the first thing I saw and it is still a pall.

Since it was a short biking day, we went to the International Mill Museum - a really unusual and interesting place with mills from all over the world, either moved there or reconstructed according to original plans.  Right down the street from the hotel. Very cool.

We did not visit the bizarre Glocken Palast (Palace of the Bells) which has exhibits devoted to the trades and a small island in the lake that sports a peace bell.  

Off to Wolfsburg and the signage was a bit of a disappointment (read: we got on the wrong trail).  A really sandy stretch, though next to the river, was hard to manage and afterwards we got advice from another biker on the best way to get to Wolfsburg (also not on the map!). 

We picnicked at the Elbeseitenkanal, which we'd seen a few weeks earlier.  Here, we biked UNDER the canal. W E I R D.

Everything worked out great and we arrived not really worse for wear to a lovely surprise: a room with a tub! And a fan!  After dinner it was great to have a long soak and then be lulled to sleep by the whirr of the blades.

Day Last

Scheduled departure was 2:00 PM to be taken home by train, so there was time to check out the Wolfsburg Schloss.  The castle was not as ornate as many, but still big.  The interior hasn't been preserved in it's original form, but rather converted into exhibition space. We had a guide though the current show because you'd get lost without one.  It's like a labyrinth, albeit covered in folded silver lamé. There were installations and paintings and objects by the artist placed here and there though, like most modern work, the concept was lost on me.

And our last look at the Aller on this trip.  We'll have to find time to finish it up from Wolfsburg to its source near Magdeburg.

That was it!  We headed to the station, got a snack at the bakery to tide us over and looked at the folks paddling in the water around the VW plant.  

Fun trip! Maybe if the weather holds for a bit and the virus stays in check, there will be a chance to sneak in one more trip.