2nd Advent, 3rd Advent, Stuttgart

Sounds like the beginning of a children's rhyme - one potato, two potato, three potato,  four.... Actually, that was one of the modern works on the wall of an art museum in Stuttgart, but more of that later.

Second Advent, second candle lit. Bad photo.

On that Sunday, we went to Emden, as we have several times before. It's so nice to have a guide, to have some info.  Thanks, Renate!

This time, the artist was Franz Radziwill, an artist from the pre- and post-WWII time, who was fascinated by landscape and technology.  Frankly, he's not one of my favorites, but I love his clean technique and honesty to reality and fantasy.  That sounds like a contradiction, but bear with me - his paintings are realistic with elements of fantasy that can be logically incorporated into the viewer's reality. And they (mostly) mirror reality.

An example:  The Water Tower in Bremen. The water tower was real and there/here until it got bombed during WWII.  So, real.  But the "town wall" and the little private gardens are fantasy. But both are realistically rendered and make a social comment - that technology is a looming presence over the people who do their daily work for sustenance.  The message is apt, I think.

After some lunch, Werner and I took a walk in the (very) fresh air and then re-visited some of the exhibition and our favorite painting in the permanent collection there - the north German landscape. It was a nice day.

Skip to Thursday and we are off to Stuttgart.  To a party.  Yes, a long way to go for a party, but I really wanted to be there. Sandra is a client who turned into a friend and after 7 plus years of meeting almost weekly, we've got some history.  A couple of years ago, she transferred back to Stuttgart, and this was a house-warming and pre-Christmas event.  Of course, we wanted to do more than just go to the party, so, a long weekend.

Naturally, we wanted to go by train.  Driving is especially stressful this time of year and frankly it's cheaper, faster and easier to ride the rails.  However, the rails have been suffering lately - less investing in the infrastructure and so there have been more and more delays.  I tend to be quite tolerant since there are often alternatives to anything cancelled.  So it was.  We got the other main station to find that our fast train had been cancelled, but then took the local train to Verden, just south of Bremen, where we caught up with our scheduled train!  Weird, but it worked.  Then to Hannover, a switch to another fast train that took us directly to Stuttgart.  We snacked, and read, and snoozed with at least three times the leg room of a plane.  And then we landed in the big city.

Folks in Bremen complain about the constant and forever roadworks here.  It's worse there!  The Stuttgart main station is undergoing a M A J O R reconstruction and getting around the station is confusing at best.  A little bit uncomfortable, too.  It took a while to fine our way out and we gave up trying to find out how to get where we needed to go and went to the tourist office.  Wow.  They figured out all the routes and gave us printed copies of all the connections and maps and advice.  Great!

Arrive hotel.  Not so cool and modern but clean and convenient.  And the room!  Pure nostalgia.  The lampshades matched the curtains which matched the wall paneling which matched the upholstery on the built-in seating.  But it was plenty room and there was a tub!  Love me a tub:  three days, three baths.

Sandra had recommended a favorite restaurant, so we opted for it Thursday night.  Authentic Italian owned by Antonio, authentic Italian.  We reserved for 6:30 thinking that was too early, but we were hungry and a little tired.  We were the first diners there, but by 7:00 the place was full and lively!  We had an aperitivo and perused the menu.  Lots of good choices, but then Antonio mentioned the off-menu offers, among them fresh pasta with white truffles.  Oh, my, yes, I will have that!  Werner ordered the Saltimbocca.

Everything was yummy delicious and we took our time and tried to eat it all, but as usual we failed.  And then the bill.  Buggy eyes:  WHAT?  My indulgence was 39 euros.  Ouch, as in OUCH. I think the price of truffles must have skyrocketed in the last 20 years since I last had truffles.  Lesson learned: ask the price.

Saturday:  breakfast and off to the Mercedes Museum.

Stuttgart is huge.  The metropolitan population is almost as big as Atlanta but area-wise about one-third smaller.  So, more compact.  Traffic is a nightmare even with buses, trams, subways and region trains toting people around.  It is just plain crowded.  NOT taking the car was a great idea.  Public transport is the only way to go and a stop right in front of our hotel was a huge plus.

On the way to the museum, we walked by the Porsche Arena.  Stuttgart is the Auto-Stadt!

The Mercedes Museum building is itself quite impressive inside and out.  But the inside stuff was especially fascinating.  More than just the cars and the inventors - there was local and world history incorporated into the exhibits as well.  And it is such fun just looking at these old cars.  Such craftsmanship!

 An early motorcycle.

 Wheel details.

 Crank her up!

 Even the stairs were gorgeous.

Then, back into the old city and a short visit to a small part of the Christmas Market and some potato pancakes.  They were OK. I think Bremen does them better, but, you know, I'm from Bremen.

Next!  Kunstmuseum (Art Museum), locally known as The Cube, because it's a glass cube right in the middle of the pedestrian zone.  Current exhibit:  Ecstasy, tracing that emotion from ancient times to the present.  It started with Bacchus, included political events, sports, dancing, music.  Quite interesting and sometimes very loud.

We only glanced at the permanent exhibit.  I have a medium tolerance for modern art, but for some modern art, I have minuscule understanding. Here, four black frames painted on the wall with the word "Bild" (picture) painted in the middle.  I am not amused.

 From the inside, a reflected view of the Christmas market outside.

That evening,  we'd wanted to try a Thai restaurant that was nearby, but it was full.  Second choice, a Greek restaurant.  Clearly the server was the owner.  What fun. We had a beer each.  Werner had a mixed grill and I had stuffed eggplant and a salad.  Two glasses of wine.  Very yummy.   Total bill:  38.90 euros, less than my truffeled pasta from the night before!! LOL.

Saturday was party day but the party was later, so one more museum visit.  This time the Staatsgalerie.  We'd not researched their collection before our visit and frankly, you never know what might be on display since many museums have at least a third of their collection in storage and what is on display changes. Regardless, in my humble opinion, they have a wonderful collection because the range on their walls, from 15th century to modern, was impressive.

We saw north Europe artists, mostly German and Dutch, early Picasso, Monet, Manet, Matisse, van Gogh, Rothko, Cristo, Pollack, Morris Lewis, Piet Mondrian and more. Not a lot from anyone but a bit of all. It was quite wonderful.

  Beautiful views.

A really happy surprise for me was seeing the original painting of Job and His Visitors by Eberhard Wächter.  This painting will not appear in standard art history texts, but I have an etching of this painting, done in the early 19th c., bought in Tallahassee about 1989 from one of the art history professors at FSU. I was enchanted by the etching, partly because of the clear black-and-whiteness of it, partly by the incredible detail, partly by the size of it.  Anyway, it's been hanging on a wall everywhere I have lived for the last 30 years. 

What a simple joy to walk into a room and find this painting.

Here, Werner's examining art and I am examining the chairs:  the Barcelona chair by Mies van der Rohe, a work of art in itself. The chairs or the stools were in every room.  Beautiful.

Sculpture.  "The Cleaning Woman."  I swear this type of work makes me do a double-take. So realistic!

 Iconic works from the "Blaue Reiter" group.

 Picasso.

  Rothko.

 And Morris Louis.

But so much time on our feet! There was a nice little restaurant in the museum, so we took in some food and then went back to the hotel to pretty ourselves for the party and double-check the route on public transport.  Werner figured out everything but we didn't figure in the football game.  OMG - Stuttgart v. Berlin, getting out just as we needed to get in.  One train after antother was packed like sardines, double sardines, TRIPLE!  We squeezed ourselve in where there was no room at all.

The flowers we'd bought got squeezed, too, but what can yo do?  After a couple of stops, 80% had debarked and then we had a comfortable ride to Sandra's.

Lots of food, lots of guests, folks I'd only met by email or Skype who I finally got to see in person.  It was fun. And Sandra's little Jasper, now 3+, was a hoot, very sociable and so friendly. I saw him last when he was 3 months old, so he's changed a bit.

Another hour getting back to the hotel, some time winding down, and then in the morning we woke to a smattering of snow. 

Pack up and check out.  We parked our bags at the train station and wandered to the main part of the Christmas market.  Wow.  It's huge, as one would expect for a metropolis of 5 million.  The "signature" of the Stuttgart market is the decorated roofs of the stands.  So creative!  Lots of greenery and small statues and such.  Wonderful.

 

Then return to the train station.  Pick up the bags. Board the train.  OK, we're on our way.  But then in  Frankfurt there's a little glitch - the ICE was replaced by a train one rung lower on the ladder.  No  WiFi, but there were old-fashioned compartments with comfy seats for 6. Since it was just us 2 almost the whole way, there was room to stretch out and rest.  Yeah, the trains aren't perfect, but there's lots to say for the service.

Nevertheless, it was a long day and when we got home at 10:30 o'dark it took a bit of time to wind down.  But we have lots of fun memories of a great weekend away....

First Advent 2018

I have to say, I've gotten to really like the Advent candles.  Countdown to the big day, but not every day.  Every week. One down, three to go.

We had a small breakfast at home and lit the first candle before heading off to René and Rima's. The little Santa is getting worn - I noticed several spots where his paint has flaked.  Replace?  Naahhh.  We're all showing our age.

I don't remember our First Advent at René and Rima's, but it was quite a while ago - 13 years?  In those first years it was quite the celebration with three sets of grandparents and a great-grandmother and godparents and later other friends and family.  It's changed over the years, sometimes smaller, sometimes a bit bigger. Some of the early participants have left us.  But there's always First Advent.

And Rima loves decorating for the holiday and the table is always festive.  I was tickled to see the place mats I'd done for them so long ago!

Meanwhile, Amina is getting older and doing some makeup experimenting.  Her natural lashes, which 90% of womenhood worldwide would die to have, needed enhancement -- in her opinion.  So, longer and thicker lashes.

To eat:  this year, chicken soup with Eierstich, lamb, Brussels sprouts in browned butter, potatoes and gravy.  Was it good?  Well, yes, it was.
V E R Y.

Here's the happy group.  Later of course other friends dropped by.  There's always something to share later on.

My pecan pie was a hit, as usual.  It's not me, it's the pie!  I asked Rima if I should take the left-over slivers home with me.  She said NO really fast!  Love, love bringing a little of my traditions to our German family traditions.

Thanksgiving, v. 24

We could go back and check, I guess, though if you have to rely entirely on my memory, I don't know if the count would stand.  BUT, we think this is the 24th Thanksgiving dinner we've shared with friends here in Germany.  We've lived here 25 Thanksgivings, but I'm pretty sure we didn't do anything the first year.  And I'm sure I was sad. 

This year, we celebrated a bit early since Ulli and Ilsemarie had other obligations next weekend and it wouldn't be Thanksgiving without them. No problem.  Thanksgiving early.

Invitations went out some weeks ago.  I really like sending a personal invitation though somethymes the inspiration is late in coming.  This was a good one, IMHO.

Prep, prep, prep.   This dinner doesn't happen overnight and our tradition here is that we do it all - no side dishes brought by the guests.  I'm not sure it's a science, but it has become a kind of routine putting this all together.

After the invite, plan the menu.  It varies less and less. The soup always changes, but we all love sweet potatoes and mashed potatoes. Exotic black-eyed peas have a place on the table along with cornbread dressing.  Green bean casserole has become a favorite.

Soup this year:  pumpkin from this lovely specimen, a Muskatkürbis (nutmeg pumpkin - is that right?) We added fresh turmeric and ginger and chili pepper. Yum.  We'll add some cream to the leftovers for tomorrow's lunch.

The table has to be done the day before - along with pies  - because there is way too much to do from getting up in the morning to having dinner at 2:30 in the afternoon.

The table hasn't changed in years now - the old grandma china, doilies under the plates, every chair we have in the house!  It's definitely snug around the table.

The turkey got spatchcocked again - ugly but tasty, and at 11.5 pounds, one of the smaller birds, historically speaking.  But still plenty for a cold turkey sandwich the next day and some pot pies later on.

(Ignore the clock on the wall.  We don't keep that one wound.)

Eating is serious business!

Afterwards a walk in the crispy, sunny air and then dessert.  It ain't T'giving without pecan pie, and what everyone loves just as much is Key lime pie. I strive to please.

But then it is finally over.  The guests leave and we clean up.  It takes a while, but like with the prep, the clean up has become a science, more or less.  Before you know it, everything is shiny clean and ready to go back into storage.  Really, we need to find another day during the year to get out the grandma dishes.

Kitchen peace.

Sunday is of course a bit quiet after so much the days before.  Simple breakfast, another walk, and a walk along the river is tonic for the soul.  We've often walked UP these stairs, but seldom down.  

Thinking already of next year and our 25th Thanksgiving Anniversary.  Suggestions of something special to commemorate this occasion are welcome!

Frankfurt with Friends

Before Klaus and Johanna's 50th Anniversary celebration, their kids asked friends to give gifts of time and companionship.  Great idea!  No one married for 50 years needs more stuff!

So we got together with Ulli and Ilsemarie and planned a trip we'd have done anyway, but treated the Golden Wedding Anniversary pair to Frankfurt.  Funny, Frankfurt is not a destination for most folks in Germany, and our friends had not been there since --- forever.

First, train.  We complain a lot about train service (though to my thinking it is still amazing), but sure enough, we started off on the wrong foot:  our train from Bremen was delayed which meant we were going to miss our connection in Hamburg.  BUT we got other connections that got us to Frankfurt only 30 minutes later than the original arrival time.  I say, not bad.

There was time to unpack and freshen up before heading to dinner at a restaurant known for local cuisine, above all Grüne Sauce - a creamy sauce with 7 fresh herbs.  Put it on anything and whatever it is tastes better!

Next day, a guided tour.  Ahhh, well, less than expected.  The group was too big and the guide was, well, less than expected.  But we got our legs and figured out what to do next.

The city has so much to offer - wonderful museums, interesting little corners of the city, a Markthalle with everything you can imagine to eat and buy, and of course the river.  There's new stuff, too:  the old city, torn down however long ago, has been rebuilt. Though they followed the original plans, and everything was done faithfully, it reminded me a bit of a Disney reproduction.  Not really my thing, but a huge tourist draw for now.

We walked to the river and found a couple to take a pic of us all.  

After the tour, we were of course hungry, so we went back to the Markthalle and were so lucky to find a table at one of the Italian places.  Yes, yes, yes.  Antipasti and wine.  Sooooo good. We ate every single bite.

Then we went our separate ways for a few hours.  Werner and I opted for the Karikatur Museum where there was a current exhibit of the works of  Volker Kriegel.  It was a bit different/weird but good.

Our companions walked along the river but decided the museum they wanted to visit was just too far to walk, so just wandering around was enough.

Coffee, another look at the pedestrian zone, and it was time to find dinner.

We decided going back to the hotel was as good as any and found a steak restaurant that fit the bill.  It was good, but I have a complaint, or at least an observation.  The portions seem to be getting larger and larger.  Or my appetite is waning.  Hard to believe the latter.  I love to eat, but frankly, restaurant portions need some adjusting!!

The weather was just perfect the whole time - pleasantly warm and sunny.  After a second night in our hotel, and another filling breakfast, we were off to the train again and an easy trip home.

It is such fun being with these folks and we're already looking forward to the next outing.  Ilsemarie will retire in the summer (I think) and then the possibilities will really grow.  Poland?  Hungary? 

Art Tour

There have been more than a few art tours, and this one we have done before - I think two or so years ago.  It's all here in our "neighborhood" in Bremen Nord and we bike from here to there. In fact, this little tour is how Werner got started taking art lessons again.

He had a "job" this time - to do his art thing at the studio where he takes lessons while visitors come and check out what goes on there.  You go, Werner!

After he finished his 11-1 slot, we met up and went to some other studios.  First up, the chaotic folks.

Of course, artists are often a bit chaotic, but these folks are exceptional.  Hidden behind some shrubs and a long driveway in a very upright-looking neighborhood are assorted sheds with dead cars and parts of various kinds of machinery and a goat in a well-decorated grassy pen - as well as the house and its interesting garden.

We wandered around a bit and then headed to our next stop, but met some chestnuts along the way.  It seems it will be a big year for nuts - there are acorns by the ton and beech nuts by the bucketful and apparently an abundance of chestnuts.  These were outside a garden gate, yours for the taking.  We took a few.


Then to Lesum where there's a co-op of artists who share a lovely old light-filled space.  Outside was the "cover" theme of the tour - diversity and inclusion, represented by the mannequins painted in various flags of the world.  There was no "German" mannequin there -  locals who visited were supposed to represent Germany, I guess.

 Inside the various artists have space to work and show what they do.

And then to another site, a former factory which of course has lots of open spaces.  A favorite artist of ours there is a woman who works with wood, mostly "pillars" and with a chain saw!  Not one of the big ones to cut down trees, but a smaller one that can be a bit more discrete in its "carving."  Her work is so clever!

 

Other artists in this building paint - and here's some tools of their work.


We'd thought to visit one more place, but it got cool and cloudy and we opted for home. But we took home some ideas and some inspiration.