Sunday, September 23, 2007

Nürnberg

... the most recent terminus for the Wichmann/Meyer-Brandt/ Hellmerichs gang. Once again, it was fun and interesting and educational and tiring and relaxing and filling (we will eat!) and all the things you want a weekend away to be. Besides that, the weather was wonderful - cool mornings, warm afternoons and lots and lots of sun.

We left Bremen at 7 AM; along the way we stuffed ourselves with the sweets and snacks in the goodie bags that Ilsemarie prepared, in addition to Duchess apples from the Hellmerichs' tree , carrot-nut bread from me and of course some champagne to put some bubble into the occasion. As if we needed the extra stimulation.

We arrived in Nürnberg before noon -- just in time to catch the walking tour of the old city that began at 1:30.

The City

Our tour guide was at least 75 years old, so he was able to tell us a lot, much of it from a first-person perspective. He could talk.

Nürnberg is in Franken, now a part of Bavaria, but the locals tend to identify themselves first as Frankish. That's the way it is in Germany; old allegiances die hard.

This is the Spital, a hospital established in the 1300s.




Here's the spire and roof ornaments of the Church of Our Lady (Frauenkirche) that presides over the old market. Just under the clock is the
"Männleinlaufen" from the 1500s; the figures rotate as in a Black Forest Clock; the seven electors come and pay homage to the emperor every day at twelve and then of course the hour is rung. Below the clock is the balcony where the Kristkind comes to open the famous Nürnberg Christmas Market.


Kristkindlmarkt is perhaps the most popular of all the Christmas markets in Germany and draws visitors from all over the world. This spire is actually a fountain that rests on the ground in the square. A ring welded into the filigree of the fence is special - turn it and it will bring you luck.


Here's the old town hall, rather bombastic in style - but it does get your attention. While we were standing there, the governor went striding by ! And there was only one aide following him. Do we see such a thing in the US ?


Over the main entrance is this pelican feeding its young, a symbol of self-sacrifice (supposed to be based on fact but is, in fact, false) and that is supposed to somehow represent the interest of the state in its people (also not necessarily a fact, in fact). Anyway, the interesting thing here was the artist seemed not to have seen a pelican before sculpting this large bird -- there's not really a pouch in the beak and the wings are more eagle- than pelican-like.

Nürnberg is famous for toys; Playmobil is located there. Here's Werner with an almost life-size Playmobil Policeman. The sign says "don't touch." OK, you're the cop.


And here's the local Starbucks. They're becoming as ubiquituous as the Golden Arches. We even have one in Bremen now.

Nürnberg is famous for its sausages, too, smaller versions of our famous Bratwurst, that are traditionally served with Sauerkraut. Our server, dressed in traditional Dirndl, also wore the traditional socks and sandals. Wardrobe malfunction !!!!

While we were there, they had the annual Fall Festival with booths of food and beer and wurst and beer and gingerbread and beer and pretzles. Warm soft fresh pretzles. They're really tasty.

The Hopfen Haus or Hops House was one of the many places to have a beer, listen to tradional music (accordion essential) and enjoy the ambience. The facade of this place was completely decked with real hops!

End of the day. Sit and have a beer in the local Greek pub, where else??




Day 2 - History and More History

I think most Americans associate Nürnberg with the trials after World War II and the choice of Nürnberg as the site of the trials was of course no accident. Nürnberg had been the site of the important rallies of the National Socialists and where they intended to build a permanent center for party activities.

Only part of the project was realized - the war intervened - but enough was built that it has become a monument and museum to the failed programs. It is hard to describe - impressive, depressing, distressing, disturbing, amazing in its planned scope.

The city was heavily bombed during the war and had perhaps less to do with its strategic value than its symbolic importance. We spent the morning paying tribute to that past.


Here's a view of the partially completed arena intended for ceremonies. It would have been the first domed stadium had it been finished. Now it's the site of the museum documenting the time. Fascinating. Scary.


Here we are approaching the outdoor rally grounds where the unlamented leader stood in front of the columned backdrop to address thousands of followers. Some of it was demolished at the end of the war (the symbols, the torches) and the collonade later since it was unstable. It is still amazingly large and imposing.



Happy faces.


Afternoon

To the Albrecht Dürer House. What a work horse this artist was! The house is more to give an idea of how he lived at the time; his works are in museums all over the world but sadly not here.



Just across from the house is the entrance to the Burg, the Festung, the Fortress overlooking the city.

It's a good castle with towers and walls built into the stone of the hillside and lovely old half-timbered builidings.


We stopped for refreshment on the way down and got a chuckle from this sign. Translation is a dangerous business! Does that mean that we are guests in the restroom? Kinda weird.



Figure this one out.


Language problems aside, it was a good weekend of fun and food and hanging out together. Next time ... somewhere else!

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